Engine Compartment

Removed brake pedal assembly21-brake-pedal

Removed master cylinder

14-master-cylinder

Documented the windshield washer tubing routing before removing from car:

17-windhsield-washer-tubing

Off with the Alternator, carburetor, ignition coil, starter relay and automatic choke.

06-carburetor-hookup

12-ignition-coil-hookup

08-starter-relay

07-automatic-choke

Power steering pulley04-power-steering-pulley

Alternator mounting bracket03-alternator-bracket

Looking pretty bare.  I’m just about ready to pull the engine!22-engine-compartment

Front of car

Front grille removed

01-front-grille-removed

After removing the battery tray, the horns are clearly visible. 08-horns

I could not get the transmission cooling line detached from the radiator.  It kept wanting to twist.   I eventually ended up cutting it with a hacksaw, knowing I was going to order up a nice new stainless steel one anyway. 06-cut-transmission-cooling-line

Removing the A/C drier canister.  It’s full of desiccant that absorbs moisture.  This one’s shot because it’s been left open to the atmosphere.  The new one will be plugged and I’ll need to quickly hook it into the system to preserve the desiccant.

02-AC-drier

Documenting the wire routing before I remove the wiring harness.

03-left-headlight-socket

05-right-headlight-socket

Heat and A/C

After unscrewing five nuts from the firewall, I was able to remove the heater and A/C as an entire unit. (A/C on the right, heater on the left)

04-heater-AC-unit-removed

The passenger compartment is looking mighty spacious now!  Leaving the seat in makes it easier to work.

06-passenger-compartment

Snapped a picture of the windshield wiper linkage before removing.

11-wiper-linkage

Noted the position of some fiberglass panels attached to the firewall before removing.  They keep the heat from the engine compartment from entering the passenger compartment.

09-firewall-insulation

08-firewall-insulation

07-firewall-insulation

Now it’s time to start working on the engine compartment.  All of this stuff needs to come out!

19-engine-compartment

Electronic ignition module:     17-electronic-ignition-and-fasteners

Vacuum canister.  It keeps the accessory vacuum constant even as the engine vacuum changes.  Kinda like a mechanical version of a capacitor.

20-vacuum-canister-and-fasteners

Heater control valve.  When you slide the lever on the dash from COLD to WARM, this valve opens up and allows hot water from the engine to enter the heater core in the passenger compartment.

21-heater-control-valve-and-fasteners

Dash Part 2

Now we just need to disconnect  some wires, some pneumatic lines and a heater control linkage.  Then we should be able to remove the dash assembly from the car.  Here I am removing the passenger door switch.

01-passenger-door-switch

Unplugging the wires from the door buzzer and seatbelt warning relay / buzzer.

02-relay-buzzer

What a mess!  Glad I’m taking pictures.

03-pneumatic-routing

Removing the wiring harness from the firewall.

05-engine-compartment-wiring-harness

Heater control linkage.

06-warm-cold-linkage

Brake switch wiring (both the emergency brake and foot brake)

08-brake-switch-wiring

Finally, the dash is free!

19-dash-out

Here’s how the car looks with no dash.  Spacious!

20-dash-out

Dash part 1

I snapped some photos of the various wiring connections inside the dash.   It’s pretty obvious what connects to where but I wanted to make sure I captured the wire routing since all of that is going to get dismantled.

01-fuse-box

02-relays

The infamous turn signal “clicker”

04-flasher

Instrument cluster wiring

06-thru-instrument-cluster-hole

So the dash is held in place by five screws that run along the bottom of the front windshield and two more screws, one on the far left and one on the far right where your feet go.  I discovered that these extra two screws are used as pivot points.  After loosening them slightly, I removed the five top screws and was able to rock the entire dash back toward the interior of the car.  This makes it very easy to get at all of the pneumatic tubing, wiring and various other gizmos located in there.   I suspect the dash started out this way when the car was being assembled.  After everything was hooked up, they’d simply rock the dash into place and tighten all of the screws.

09-dash-rocked-forward

Here are a couple of souvenirs I found hiding inside the dash.  Looks like Ed’s Westwood is still around.  A body shop.  Funny, I don’t remember ever taking the car there.  Must have been before my time.

10-items-found-inside-dash

Working my way forward

The car is starting to look pretty bare in the rear.  Time to focus my attention toward the front of the car.

00-bare-in-the-rear

I removed the glove box door and the glove box itself.  Snapped a picture of the bulb for the map light just so I’d remember what it went to later.

02-map-light

I plan to remove the instrument cluster next but to do so easily, I’ll need to pull the steering column first.  I’ll need to disconnect the gear shift linkage and disconnect the steering shaft from the gear box.

03-gear-shift-linkage

The shift linkage is now disconnected.  Rats.  I don’t have a suitable tool to tap out the roll pin in the steering coupling.

05-steering-shaft-coupling

I tried using various spare bolts I had laying around.  Those didn’t work.  The punches I had were too small.  Finally I called a friend and he brought over an assortment of hardware he thought might fit the bill.  We cut one end flat on this metal rod and successfully tapped out the roll pin lickety split!

05a-roll-pin-tool

Next I pulled the steering wheel.  Sure helps to have the right tool for this.

09-steering-wheel-puller

I made a note of how the coupling attached to the steering box.  There were marks on both pieces already.

11-steering-shaft-coupling-alignment-marks

I removed the support bracket under the steering column.  Snapped a picture so I would remember the wire routing.  Unplugged the steering column connector, removed three bolts from the floor board and gently extracted the steering column.

10-steering-column

The instrument cluster came out fairly easily.  Just had to disconnect the speedometer cable, some plugs and the ammeter cables.

12-instrument-cluster-removed

I sat and pondered how I might remove the heating & A/C units from under the dash.  I decided it’ll probably be easier if I remove the dash first.  But the problem is, the bolts that secure the dash to the car are right up against the bottom of the windshield.  So I’ll have to remove the windshield first.  I carefully removed the chrome trim around the windshield.

23-remove-windshield-trim

Then I cut the old rubber windshield gasket.

24-remove-windshield

After pulling off the part of the gasket that was holding the windshield in place, I was able to gently press out the windshield and remove it from the car.

25-remove-windshield

Yuck!  Lots of rust damage under there.  Hopefully the body shop will be able to fix it.

26-windshield-removed

And voilà!  The dash fasteners!

27-dash-bolts

Headliner

I started by pulling the rubber weatherstrip from the channel along the edge of the roof.

01-window-weatherstrip

After unscrewing the 15 screws holding the weatherstrip channel in place, it wouldn’t budge.  I discovered that it was held in place with some 1/8″ thick double-sided adhesive foam weatherstrip.  After heating the weatherstrip channel with a heat gun, it came off easily and I was able to peel off the old foam strip.

16-weatherstrip-channel

There were some little black clips that held the sides of the headliner in place.  I took photos to mark their location.

03-headliner-clip

There is a black rail that runs along the interior of that weatherstrip channel.  It’s held in with one screw and several clips.  Uh oh.  Looks like there’s some rust damage on the driver’s side drip rail…

09-interior-rail-screw

I removed the frame around the rear window.

13-back-window-frame

After removing the sun visors , rear view mirror and dome light, the headliner was finally free!

14-headliner

 

Here’s the underside of the roof.

15-roof

Side windows

Time to remove the side windows and the machinery inside the doors (formally referred to as “window regulators”). After popping off the door panels, I removed the top rails.  Over the years, some parts of the mounting flange had broken off, probably due to over tightening the screws.  Looks like a common problem as I found several of these on e-bay with broken mounting holes.   I’m thinking I can probably use a nibbler tool to nibble out a rectangular area around the screw hole.  Then slide in a new piece of ABS (perhaps from an old fish aquarium lid) and cement it in place with ABS cement.  Then I can just drill a new screw hole.  We’ll see.

top-rail

This is my first time removing glass windows from an automobile.  I wasn’t exactly sure how they were attached so I slid my iPhone inside the door and took a picture of the glass.  Looks like some sort of retainer that screws on.  I reached up inside the door, found the retainer with my fingers and tried to twist it.  It budged and I unscrewed it and another located on the other end of the window.  Lifting the glass out was a cinch.

Back side window fastener

To remove the window regulator, I just needed to unscrew all of the screws and remove the assembly through the large hole in the bottom of the door.  Some of the mounting holes are slotted to allow for adjustment.  I snapped a photo first so I would have a record of the original screw positions.

Passenger Door 4

Here’s the window regulator assembly.  The grease has hardened, making the regulator operation very stiff.  I’ll eventually clean it up and re-grease it before reinstalling in the car.  For now, it goes in a box in the car parts shed.

Door-window-regulator

I thought the rear quarter windows would be just as easy.  They turned out to be quite a challenge to remove.   They hadn’t been operated in probably 20 years and were so stiff, it felt like something was going to break when I tried to operate them.

I’ll need to disassemble this one inside the door and pull the pieces out individually.  Smaller access hole too.  I snapped a photo to remember screw positions.

16_leftRearWindowHW

And here are the pieces.  Yikes!

rear-quarter-window-regulator

Not being really sure how this all goes back together, I decided I should try to reinstall it in the car, especially while the other one is still in tact so I can reference it if I need to.  I cleaned off the old grease and put a dab of oil on all of the moving parts.  After a couple hours of fidgeting, I finally got it assembled back inside the car (and it actually feels good now that all the parts can move freely).  I jotted down a reassembly procedure for future reference:

  1. Insert window tray (piece window bolts to)
  2. Insert swivel roller into bottom slot.  Same orientation as other swivel roller.
  3. Insert black roller into top slot (with white roller facing interior of car)
  4. Insert window regulator.   
  5. Guide small roller into track welded onto interior wall of car.  
  6. Insert blue rollers into top slot and middle slot of window tray.
  7. Loosely bolt down regulator with three 7/16” screws
  8. Slide long track through both swivel rollers.  Loosely bolt into place with one nut and washer.
  9. Slide short track into place making sure it engages the one remaining roller.  Bolt in.
  10. Install three stoppers.
  11. Install glass
  12. Tighten all bolts.  Adjust as necessary.

I then removed both driver and passenger window mechanisms, bagged up the small parts and stored everything in the car parts shed.

Organization is key

The plan now is to strip the car completely down to the bare body, tow it to a body shop and have it painted.  The car can be broken down roughly into five sections:  Rear end, front end, interior, dash, and engine compartment.  With the rear end already removed, I decided to tackle the interior next.

I realized how important it was going to be to stay organized.   A few years ago, a neighbor decided he was going to restore his Range Rover.  He stripped it all the way down and eventually got discouraged.  He ended up selling the parts on e-bay and hauling the body to the dump.  I don’t want this to happen to me.

I swung by Office Depot and picked up some 4×6 and 9×12 resealable plastic bags that you can write on.

21_bag-box

Any parts I removed from the car would be put into bags labeled with the date and a short description.

19_baggies

The date would allow me to reference a folder on my computer containing pictures I took on that date.  I could easily look up the photo showing how that part was installed.  By the way, smartphones are great for a project like this.  They make it convenient to snap pictures, even in hard to access  areas such as inside the car door or under a motor mount.

folders

 

A whole section of the car, say, driver’s and passenger’s doors would go into a box (also picked up at Office Depot) and filed away in a temporary storage shed.

 

20_box-of-parts

I opted to set up an affordable storage shed so I could keep the parts out of the way and not clutter the work area in the garage.

storage_shed

 

I’m also keeping a detailed log of every part that comes off of the car and putting special notes in there that will help when it comes time to reassemble.  Here’s an excerpt from the log:

2014-6-15

  • Passenger door.  Removed door panel and top rail.  Removed long metal brace that sits under top rail.  Removed rubber bumper stopper under window.  Rolled window down below top of door.  Removed outside weather strip that contacts exterior of window (6 screws).  Removed door lever.  Removed door lever linkage (linkage goes between door lock stem and sheet metal (not between stem and glass)).  Cloth end toward latch mechanism.  Removed door lock linkage (one bolt).  Removed door handle linkage retainer (one gold screw).  There are two nuts on the bottom of the window where the regulator attaches to the window.  These MUST be removed.  Window is removed by itself, then regulator later.  Regulator is removed from large opening in bottom of door.  Removed tracks (can be removed thru large hole in bottom of door).  Removed latch mechanism.  Removed door handle.  Removed door lock.  Removed small rubber door bumper.
  • Driver’s door.  Removed door panel and top rail.  Removed long metal brace that sits under top rail (this one only had two bolts holding it down.  Looks like 3rd clip wasn’t reinstalled by Guy Hill back in ‘92).  Removed outside weather strip (6 screws).  Removed retainer screws from top of slide rails.  Removed two 7/16” nuts at bottom of window (attaches window regulator to window).  Window regulator is held to door by two longer 7/16” screws and three shorter 7/16” screws.  removed rubber window bumper.  Loosened window regulator.  Removed window.  removed window regulator.  Removed door lock, outer handle, outer lock, outer mirror.  Removed door latch.

2014-05-24

  • Removed exhaust.  Two 11/16 nuts with lock washers to hold the flange to the manifold.  One ½” nut to hang the back.
  • Removed fuel line fasteners.  Six ½” screws.  One ⅜” screw.  One ½” screw has a special washer.  It installs by the distributor.  The ⅜” screw installs by the canister.  One clip installs on the rear passenger frame rail behind the axle.

I try to jot down every detail that I think will be helpful when it comes time to reassemble the car.  I should be able to just go through the log in reverse when it comes time to reassemble.

Change of plan

I’ve been trying to stick to my plan of always keeping the car in a drivable condition.  Just disassemble and clean a section, then put it back.  But as I dug in and had a closer look at the undercarriage, I realized my plan would have to change.   40-year old undercoating is caked onto the underbody and it wouldn’t look good if I just painted over it.  The old undercoat would have to come off.  After a little research, I found the consensus for removing undercoating seemed to be to use a heat gun to soften it first then scrape it off with a putty knife.  Then use a stripper to remove the left over residue.

I began on the rear passenger side.  The sheet metal was spot welded in sections which made it convenient to work on a section at a time.   I would remove as much as I could with heat and a putty knife then I would brush on some Citristrip gel, let it sit for about 30 minutes and the rest would come off with a wire brush.

Rear underbody_2

As I worked my way across the car to the driver’s side, I noticed some sheet metal was very flimsy as I was scraping it.  As the undercoat came off, the problem became apparent.  A section of the trunk had rusted through!  I had left some old rubber floor mats in the trunk and water somehow got trapped under them.

trunk-damage

I can solder a 100-pin QFP onto a circuit board without hesitation but I never did get much practice welding sheet metal.  I’ve got some other rust spots on the body too.  I decided it would be best to hand this work off to a professional.

Driver side rocker panel damage:

driver-rocker-damage

Passenger side rocker panel damage:

passenger-rocker-damage

Some rust damage on the roof:

roof-damage

Some more research on the internet led me to Triple A Auto Body & Paint.   Armed with the above photos, I took a drive down there and talked with a fellow named Angel.  He looked at the photos and assured me it would be no problem to repair.

So now I have a new plan:  Strip the car completely down to just the body parts.  I’ll need to reinstall the rear axle so I can tow it there (there are several towing options.  Not sure which I’ll use yet).